Saturday, January 19, 2013

2013 - Part 3


If you followed the previous posts, in this serie, I go over my goals - intentions - resolutions for 2013. Pretty lame , isn't it ? Last weel, I explained my fitness goals. Could have been worst, at one point, I was thinking to prepare for the Maui Triatlon. Well, I do not have a bike, then, I bailed out.

Truth is I really like surfing, and all related activities. No kidding.
Anyway, this week is a transition week between no wind at all and good surfing with relatively small waves (4-6 foot) to crapy wind )15Knots from the north and huge swell (20+). Unfortunately, that makes poor surfing, poor paddle boarding and poor kitesurfing. Which did not stop me, of course.

-Surfing-
On Tuesday, I went to Hookipa. Totally misjudged the size of the waves from the shore. Thought it was doable. Made it outside, thanks to a huge R.I.P. current that send you offshore , between Middle and Pavillon waves. Once outside, to my amazement, I realized: Well, there was not so many people in the water. Has to be Big. F***, It is big. Believe me or not, but I saw some 18+ waves, when the forecast was calling for 12+ Max. Which is way over my skill level. Obviously. Couple of face plants and one missed bottom turn. Lot of salty water swallowed and lot of desperate swimming to avoid tons of white water. Double overhead ready ? Not at all.

No wind. 10mph. One guy got a 17m flysurfer. On Maui ?
Certainly a tourist. But why did he pack a 17m for Maui ? 
Did he read the wind charts ?

-Paddle boarding - 
Friday, I went paddle boarding. It was choppy, and windy, as I said. But overall, I am doing poretty good and hold my place in the line-up at Kanaha. Not yet ready for Hookipa or Lanes, but, well, double overhead waves are in my reach. Yes, I found paddle boarding way easier than surfing. Certainly due to the fact, like in long boarding, you can take the wave way earlier, and the drop is not that steep. Plus, the size of the board give you a lot of stability.

I did not have my camera on my board.
But I saw the stripes. And the body seemed to be at least 6ft long.
Did not wait long enough to see the tail.


Anyway, after a couple of waves, saw my first tiger shark, chilling in the line-up , doing turns between the set, maybe 10 feet from me. Of course, stressed, I fall down in the water. Which is not what you want to do when a 6-8ft shark is wandering around. It was only 3pm in the afternoon (yes, I took half the day off - I can see you coming), but tiger sharks are well known to not respect the common rule for  Sharks that only eat in the sunset or at dawn. Did not seem to be aggressive to me, but as he did not go away, I went home. Told the couple of guys that were surfing too. They seemed happy to go home as well.


Hard to say on this picture, so far away, but there is already 12+ waves.
And is picking up.

-Kitesurfing-
As I may have said in this blog, the last couple of months, we had good winds and waves, and except I am often overpowered on my 7m, I made tremendous progress in my strapless kitesurfing. Don't think I am very comfortable in 12+ waves, but in 6-8ft, definitively. Maui is maybe not the best spot in the world for kitesurfing (or is it?), but it is pretty damn close. Next week, the forecast seems very good.
Today was light again, And I tried for the first time to use my kite with my paddle board. I was able to go around in 12mph winds (??!!??) with my 10m and my 9' paddle board. Funny. 

The low that will plague our beaches with 20+ waves.
Cool.

Overall, I am pretty happy with my progress those past couple of months. My increased fitness and diminishing psoas pain allow me for longer session, more often. I think that's all I wished for.
Nothing surprising for 2013. More of the same. 


Of course, a french one. Bandit 6 !

But I will buy a 5m ;). Oh yes, it is already ordered !

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