Back to the surf

Been a while - like an eternity - I did not go surfing. To be fair, on Maui, the good conditions are only the early morning. Even if there is not enough wind to Kite, in the afternoon, it is likely to be too much for quality surfing. And, when you live in Hawaii, you only go surfing when the waves are THAT good.

This Saturday was almost perfect. 6 to 9 feet, peaky, and amazing weather.

Kanaha, relatively crowded,
but not heat. There are waves for everyone here.
Except if you --really - suck ;)

For the little story, I always go a little bit outside (I prefer to miss a wave than getting caught inside) and far from the crowd (Hey, that's my hermit side).

That day, it was funny, because it took the pack a good hour to realize that I was in a better spot, and getting all the good ones. They kept being washed on the inside.

Weird. I am usually quite off, mostly because I prefer fewer waves than a good fight for them.

But that day paid off, and after all, it has been a while, maybe it was deserved.

Still ripping on my mini long board Kazuma.
It is so easy to take waves on this thing, it is not fun anymore.
or is it ? :0

This has been a weird winter for surf. With the Honolulu Marathon eating all the late months of 2015, and this intense boat work in Honolulu in January-February, it feels I kinda blew it.

The size of the waves have been tremendous, and for amateurs like me, certainly was not that easy. Peahi has been going off almost all the time, it seems.

Well, with the boat in Lahaina, maybe this summer will be good ? It is sitting next to a pretty good surf spot, for the West side, of course ;)

One thing is sure. 

When the conditions are good, and at my size, Surfing is really really fun.

Limitless

As I was closing my first long run since I decided to get ready for the Big Island Marathon, as usual my mind was wandering around. A typical side effect of being "In Flow", where you do not feel tiredness, but invincible or limitless.

I do not meditate - at least , not the sitting Buddhist mediation - but I can imagine that the being in flow is pretty close from meditating. Thoughts come and go, they do not stick, and it feels extremely good. I guess the drawback of running to reach this state of mind is that usually it does not stick that long , and every half an  hour or so, you will go down, lose the flow and start to feel the pain of running. Well, how do you want to appreciate the ups if you do not have the downs.

Nice news shoes for a new challenge
Old ones were damned done 

It reminds me this dumb movie about body builders that feel invincible, smarter and ended up almost killing a guy to steal from him and impersonate him. Training hard and succeeding in your training can actually bring you this state of mind. Which is a great confidence booster and helps you in your day to day life, job and such. That's another nice side effect of the fitness life style. Obviously, you do not want to succumb to this feeling entirely. 

Dumb and Dumber

Thinking back about my failed "attempt" of Solo Sailing last month, it really showed my limits. I could have stretched those limits, but  this is when it was getting tricky, if not dangerous. It is good to be reminded that we are not limitless, first to constrict  our always developing ego and second to give us new challenge and to go over our boundaries.

Now, with winter coming in, I am pretty sure that Mother Nature will remind me of my limits in pretty obvious way. When the waves will reach advisory level on the North Shore, there will be plenty of room to reach and meet my fears.

Good. 

Exciting times.

Reconciled with surfing

My buddy John took me for an early Sunday morning session on the Lahaina side of Maui, to make most of the peaking south swell - maybe the last of the summer season.

Maui is colorful...

On the way, I picked his long board, I wanted to verify my new theory. I knew I like paddlesurf and kitesurf because it maximize the number of waves you can take, and there is almost always something going on if you look for it. Now, on a long  board, I am convinced - and the fact that we had a left for two hours all to ourselves made it easier - that the number of taken waves and time riding is more important than the tricks and turns I am going to do (realistically, fails) on the face itself.

The simple way of riding a long board, the zen and relaxing aspect of the glide itself, and the tiny dancing moves and foot tricks you can do, now I do believe:

This is the way it is meant to be ridden.

I can see why the old folks prefers long boards. Maybe I am getting wiser.

Or just getting older.

Looooong board style

Man, I need to rent Surfer Dude once more.

Quote of the day : "Now I am ready to watch Surfer Dude again."

Oxnard - Day Off -

Still grounded for this wonderful week end of Labor Day.

6AM. Living in the fog.

Fog like this in the morning calls for a hot day windless. Anyway, I am still on the hard. Then, wind, no wind. who cares ?

I am starting to run out of things to do on the boat. Just kidding. Anyway, I decided to take a break this Saturday and go for a surf session. I have been weeks in Ventura County and never did it yet.

The coast is amazing and I already lurked several surf spot on the road along the coast.

Usually the conditions looks excellent in the morning. Only - but sizable - negative point : It is crowded. Everywhere. Every time.

C-Street. Lots of people.

Of course, I am still doing some stuff. In this case, I am preparing the work for the yard next week as soon as we get the coupler. Cleaning the support for the strut.

There is at least 5 layers of stuff before hitting the fiberglass.
Way more work than expected.

Unsurprisingly, we discovered a typical messy job from another yard. They redid the Strut at one time in the life of the boat, without even removing the bottom paint. I counted at least 5 layers.

Black bottom paint.

Dark green bottom paint.

Gelcoat.

Old Green bottom paint.

Gelcoat.

Grey Epoxy filler / putty.

Obviously, some layers do not bound together very well, then this is just a pointless losy job.

At least, in my yard, they do the job properly - when they decide to do it.

Eventually, it came out pretty good.

And this surf session ? Actually, surprisingly fun (I hate crowd, in general, and more specifically in surfing).

Switched back to a long board when I realized the number of people with long boards who will steal all the waves. And it was small anyhow.2-5 feet. But clean. And good waves.

Fog is slowly burning out.
That will be a sunny day !

So long I did not wear my wetsuit !

Water was cold, but eventually, I forgot about it. This is summer in SoCal. Some surfers were actually not wearing wetsuits at all.

Chilling out between 2 sessions.
There is a good vibe on this beach.
I finally realize I am in California :)

Fun peaky waves, couple of feet and little more some time. Easy peasy.

Eventually, we got the blue sky.
Ventura in the back.

Maybe I am just getting old, but I had a lot of fun with a long board. I am starting to think that the fact I am surfing less those day in HI is because I stick to my short board. If i was to become proficient with a long board, I can forsee a lot of fun.

Need to think about it.

There is something very zen of gliding on those big boards effortlessly.

Maybe I just need to realize I will never be Kelly Slater ( I am not trying very hard too), 

and just go big :)

Closure

Yesterday was one of those rare day without wind and good swell.

6-8+ feet, some bigger sets.
It was crowded in the morning, but acceptable toward the end of the day, when I went.

Some good pictures from the local photographer:

There is some local talents on Maui

Looks like there was some tubes at 'The Point'

Another local photographer (under equipped):

From shore, it is always hard to realize the size of the sets.

I have mix feeling after this session.

I did not get on the way of anybody (one for once I wisely choose to eat the white wall and get caught on the inside and pounded), which is a sensible progress.

I managed to drop in 3 or 4 waves, one of them being big and scary (pounded again).

I did not give up after each pounding.

The surf report was calling 6 to 8 feet, up to 12 feet at standout breaks (which is Hookipa definition).

Then, technically, I surfed into double overhead conditions.

Arguably, it is a small Double OverHead.

But considering the timing - the end of the year - , and the shift in my priorities toward the running practice,
I think I could accept those conditions and called it an end.
As some of you might remember, one of the initial goal that sprouted this blog was to be able to kitesurf, surf and paddlesurf in double overhead conditions, and I do believe I am capable of this, in the proper conditions.

That being said, new adventures and goals are coming, the first marathon is in sight !

Peahi - November 13

Went to Peahi yesterday afternoon.
The surf was down (relatively speaking, compared to the morning), and the action too.
There was still a dozen of surfer in the water, between long boards and skis.

Mud path toward the shore

Nice 2 miles walk in the fields

Traffic Jam in a cane sugar field

People are staring

Peahi is breaking

Lots of white water

The dots are surfers

Coast is wild on the NorthShore

Walking the mud path could have been pleasant if that was not for all the cars (lazy people).

The coast is wild and point of view small and crowded.

Still, seeing helicopters and the actual wave breaking was worth it.

Not sure I want to surf it though.

Ever.

Hookipa was huge

On the way back, I stopped to Hookipa. Well. "Smaller"but messy. and still Huge.

Real pictures of the event on Jimmy Hepp 's page:

https://www.facebook.com/jimmie.hepp2/media_set?set=a.591316507572684.1073742046.100000830216933&type=3

Triple Overhead anyone ?

Was thinking to unshelve my paddleboard today, but it seems more a day to go watch Jaws.
Cannot see anyone in the water, it just looks, well, too big.

Lots of water at Kanaha

When Kanaha is too big, Hookipa is insane. And Jaws is firing.

20 foot swell could mean 40 foot faces

Eh Eh

30 Ft. average max
(i.e. 20% of the time you can find bigger waves on a set)

Maybe better to go for a run and try tomorrow instead ;)

Surf's up - Part 2

This time, I have got some pictures.

Surf addicts were calling the first real swell of the north shore season. Expected 6 to 8 feet.

Sunday morning, start a 6AM. Car is already loaded, ready to beat the crowd. Heading to Haliimaile to meet my buddy John.We rush to Hoopika. Glassy. But scary.

Hookipa entrance. First glimpses at the water.

Nobody is at Pavilion. Not a good sign.

Lanes

Wow, seems way bigger than expected. Half a dozen in the water already. You mean, Only half a dozen ONLY ? Sunday morning ? First swell of the season ?

Maybe it is way heavier than it looked. we see a few double-head sets. And lots - lots- of water moving.

Right, there is a reason nobody is in the water.

Lanes. Someone 's dropping.

We go check on Turtle Bay, and Lanes. 3 guys over there. Seems big, certainly is. And rising. John is almost ready for Lanes. That would have been certainly my biggest surf session ever over there. Then I remember my boat trip in 2 weeks, and I don't want to hurt myself again. I beg for smaller surf.

Paia Bay was a mess. Kanaha it is. 

3C. (Gaming professionals will notice).

Clean, Crowded and Cool.

Got a couple of slow but pushy 8-10 footers. And without my Paddle board. Very fun.

Ok, tomorrow I am back with it.

This season announced itself pretty good.

Surf is Up

Surf season had a slow start, and we did not get any No Wind - Big Swell day here.

No cool pictures still.

Anyway, I am ready.

Basic setup. Nothing more, nothing less.

Had a a good session yesterday at Middle and even better today at Lanes with my friend John.

Even did a good drop or two on this quick left, in a 5-6 footer. Pretty fun. 

It is like biking, you do not forget. But you don't get better too ;)

Surfin' Stylin' Bikin'

It is done. the most ridiculous surf rack ever.

It looks as cumbersome that it is

To tell the truth, it is easier to ride like that , than -in my old' times, in San Francisco on my 50cc scooter and my hand made side-rack. I was comfortable at 40mph, which is good enough to go to the beach using the country side roads.

Oh yeah, with the twinTip, you have the airplane style.

Wings stability improvements

No worries, I have in order something a little more fancy. I would like to get more than 2 kites and one board one the bike.

What about the Paddleboard ?

South swell

The huge swell that hit Tahiti a few days ago came to our south shores this weekend.
First swell of the season, no winds and a week-end day... It will be crowded (and it was).
Anyway, we went with my buddy John get a taste of the brown water of Maalaea.
We got up at 5AM...

Makawao by night. Exciting....

The Harbor jetty... Nothing exciting. 

the Light House. A nice right.

Artistic view

Freight Train...

.. is the fastest right in the world. No Kidding ;)

Maalea reef. Some crowd.  But manageable.

It was not my best surf experience ever, but discovering a new spot, the heat of the south shore, the light winds or offshore breeze, the quick rights, all this contributed for a exciting experience. 

Reef was shallow and tricky. The waves were closing out most of the time. Some bigger sets were washing everybody. Overall, a casual spot, way better for spongers than surfers. Locals were in force there too.

I prefer the North shore, and its messier, bigger waves, but this first swell was worth the drive.
And, in fact, we went again today, this time with the family.

You have to love Maui.

Maui - Surf side

Maui is well known to be the paradise for windsurfing and kitesurfing - due to the everyday presence of the wind, 20 knots trades getting pumped through the venturi "tunnel" that join the two volcanos of the island, the Kahului-Kihei axis.

However, there is some good surf too. It is more difficult to catch, you may have to drive more, and wait more. But when it is good, well, it is good.

Thanks to John, my surf buddy, immobilized by a stupid fall on a longboard-skateboard, we got some pretty cool pictures of the surf I never care to try to chase, on the other spots of the island, last winter.

Honolua Bay

Beautiful right on the west side

Hookipa - Middle on a big day

Looks like a heavy paddle out

Lanes, same day.

Jaw, aka Peahi

Reserved for the tow-surfing crew, most of the time.