Still grounded for this wonderful week end of Labor Day.
6AM. Living in the fog. |
Fog like this in the morning calls for a hot day windless. Anyway, I am still on the hard. Then, wind, no wind. who cares ?
I am starting to run out of things to do on the boat. Just kidding. Anyway, I decided to take a break this Saturday and go for a surf session. I have been weeks in Ventura County and never did it yet.
The coast is amazing and I already lurked several surf spot on the road along the coast.
Usually the conditions looks excellent in the morning. Only - but sizable - negative point : It is crowded. Everywhere. Every time.
C-Street. Lots of people. |
There is at least 5 layers of stuff before hitting the fiberglass. Way more work than expected. |
Black bottom paint.
Dark green bottom paint.
Gelcoat.
Old Green bottom paint.
Gelcoat.
Grey Epoxy filler / putty.
Obviously, some layers do not bound together very well, then this is just a pointless losy job.
At least, in my yard, they do the job properly - when they decide to do it.
Eventually, it came out pretty good. |
And this surf session ? Actually, surprisingly fun (I hate crowd, in general, and more specifically in surfing).
Switched back to a long board when I realized the number of people with long boards who will steal all the waves. And it was small anyhow.2-5 feet. But clean. And good waves.
Fog is slowly burning out. That will be a sunny day ! |
So long I did not wear my wetsuit ! |
Chilling out between 2 sessions. There is a good vibe on this beach. I finally realize I am in California :) |
Fun peaky waves, couple of feet and little more some time. Easy peasy.
Eventually, we got the blue sky. Ventura in the back. |
Maybe I am just getting old, but I had a lot of fun with a long board. I am starting to think that the fact I am surfing less those day in HI is because I stick to my short board. If i was to become proficient with a long board, I can forsee a lot of fun.
Need to think about it.
There is something very zen of gliding on those big boards effortlessly.
Maybe I just need to realize I will never be Kelly Slater ( I am not trying very hard too),
and just go big :)
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