My buddy John took me for an early Sunday morning session on the Lahaina side of Maui, to make most of the peaking south swell - maybe the last of the summer season.
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| Maui is colorful... |
On the way, I picked his long board, I wanted to verify my new theory. I knew I like paddlesurf and kitesurf because it maximize the number of waves you can take, and there is almost always something going on if you look for it. Now, on a long board, I am convinced - and the fact that we had a left for two hours all to ourselves made it easier - that the number of taken waves and time riding is more important than the tricks and turns I am going to do (realistically, fails) on the face itself.
The simple way of riding a long board, the zen and relaxing aspect of the glide itself, and the tiny dancing moves and foot tricks you can do, now I do believe:
This is the way it is meant to be ridden.
I can see why the old folks prefers long boards. Maybe I am getting wiser.
Or just getting older.
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| Looooong board style |
Man, I need to rent Surfer Dude once more.
Quote of the day : "Now I am ready to watch Surfer Dude again."
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