Saturday, November 25, 2017

Give Thanks - 3 years in a row.

It has been three years in a row than Thanksgiving period has been firing.
20knots, 15ft feet of waves.
At that size of wave, my skills start to be a bit stretched :)
Over the year, my comfort zone kiting has been growing from the 8ft to 12ft.
But a building swell of that size, triple overhead face, going down the line ....
 Looking at the wall behind me ... Reconsidering this bottom turn that would throw me up there...
Just not ready yet.

Red is good. Last week we peaked 15ft ground swell.
This week is still super playful.

Hard to tell when you are not use to, but the reef is actually pretty far out.
The bigger the wave , the further they break.
Today they are very very far, and there is a lot and lot of white.
This is the kind of day crazy folks head to Peahi.

White Line is the back means .. It's alive.

Kite beach and Kanaha spots were pretty crowded.
You can only assume that Hookipa is closing out and everyone default to here, which is the best place to handle swell that size.

Old man's beach is busy busy. Must be good.

The last couple of weeks I have been enjoying serenity at home, rebuilding slowly my running (I feel this time I am on the good track) and kiting or paddling when ever possible.
I really enjoy spending time on the boat, getting ready for our next grand adventure, but I enjoy coming back as well. 

Smiling after an amazing sesh
It is sort of going back and forth between very nice and very very nice.
Life's good in Hawaii.
I am thankful, and we are sparing the turkey.
It was not chicken's day, on the plate and on the water.

Sunday, November 5, 2017

Half and half

This past month has been charged with emotions.
I lost a grand-ma and I lost a friend.
I hit 45, which I believe is a good crossing the middle line of a life.
Half of my life.

It all comes down which half of the bottle you are looking into.

I did long and deep thinking - and the only conclusion, really, is that I should not waste my time, because - who knows.

Call of the sea

It is time to reach for my dream.
It is time to sail south.
To cross the equator and step into the other hemisphere.

It is time to see the other half.