Sunday, March 17, 2013

Time for a statement


I have started this blog six months ago with very specifics goals in mind. Going public about resolutions, forcing a change of lifestyle, overcome injury and push the limit of my actual physical capabilities.
In just six month, I did most of it. Was it that complicated ? not really. I am surprised myself how quickly human nature adapt and takes for granted a new lifestyle. I know for sure it goes both way, and it is very easy to let myself go.

- Surf. Last week, the wind shutoff after a small perturbation created the feared Kona winds on the island. We had medium surf 6- 10 feet, and overall good conditions. Ended up going at Paia, and Hookipa the day after,  following a couple of month of no surfing at all.  I surprised myself to be comfortable when overhead surf, when conditions are clean, the spot not too crowded. Yes, it was not that big. Was it fun ? Oh yeah.

Clean Hookipa

- SUP. Today was a big day at Kanaha. 10-15 foot. Kind of waves that are impossible for me in paddlesurf. Managed to get 3 or 4 drops in waves that looked double-overhead. Big, Fun, Scary. Checked.

Kanaha with Kona winds. Rare.

- Kiting. Has been a while I am comfortable in big surf strapless. Now, I can really enjoy Winter time, when good winds meet good waves. When the wave are under 15 foot, I feel good enough to even try surf the wave. Bottom turns, slick rides. Not sure what it looks like from a distance, but from my perspective, I believe it looks really like KiteSurfing. Oh, and did I tell you I bought a new 6m and used 5m for summer time ? Yeah, I know, I am covering the full Maui range.: 5-6-7. No comments.

Kanaha on a big windy day. Winter time.

- Diet. Lost more than 20 pounds. Stabilized my weight effortless with my new diet. Cut my alcohol consumption by 3000% - at least. Some truth. It is very hard to loose weight, if you do not log your calories. Just following my appetite, eating slowly and when hungry, exercising  almost every day. My weight stabilize itself, but does not go down. Overall, my physical stamina is incomparable of when I arrived on Maui. I can kite and surf longer, and I do believe this is no more the factor that would limit me. Technique, Skills, Talent,  Self-Confidence, yes, certainly ;) 
Stabilized weight a 147-148 pounds.

- Psoas injury. Well, this one is tricky. First, daily exercising is very hard. At least for me. I lack the motivation when not in pain. I can run and swim way longer than before, but will still feel a tension in the groin. As usual, those muscles are the first ones to complain. Real pain like before. Not. 100% healed ? Do no think so either. Morning yoga, Sun salutation, and better stretching after effort ? Checked.

Stretching like a warrior. Looking constipated is an art.


What's left ? We found a nice balance in our up country little home, close to the north shore and its year-round water activities, wind, no wind, waves, no waves, sun, no sun. Waling the dog, quick jump in the local swimming pool, couple of laps at the close activity park. Down to one car, no commute. Work is getting busier, but the pressure is easier to deal with being remote. Question is: I need to stay busy. To have plans. To dream about something..(Ah, Mobylette !). To make plans. Then , what's next ?


Doing Mandala with my daughter. Time to reflect on myself. Or Not. 
Time to draw, just that.







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