Back to the surf

Been a while - like an eternity - I did not go surfing. To be fair, on Maui, the good conditions are only the early morning. Even if there is not enough wind to Kite, in the afternoon, it is likely to be too much for quality surfing. And, when you live in Hawaii, you only go surfing when the waves are THAT good.

This Saturday was almost perfect. 6 to 9 feet, peaky, and amazing weather.

Kanaha, relatively crowded,
but not heat. There are waves for everyone here.
Except if you --really - suck ;)

For the little story, I always go a little bit outside (I prefer to miss a wave than getting caught inside) and far from the crowd (Hey, that's my hermit side).

That day, it was funny, because it took the pack a good hour to realize that I was in a better spot, and getting all the good ones. They kept being washed on the inside.

Weird. I am usually quite off, mostly because I prefer fewer waves than a good fight for them.

But that day paid off, and after all, it has been a while, maybe it was deserved.

Still ripping on my mini long board Kazuma.
It is so easy to take waves on this thing, it is not fun anymore.
or is it ? :0

This has been a weird winter for surf. With the Honolulu Marathon eating all the late months of 2015, and this intense boat work in Honolulu in January-February, it feels I kinda blew it.

The size of the waves have been tremendous, and for amateurs like me, certainly was not that easy. Peahi has been going off almost all the time, it seems.

Well, with the boat in Lahaina, maybe this summer will be good ? It is sitting next to a pretty good surf spot, for the West side, of course ;)

One thing is sure. 

When the conditions are good, and at my size, Surfing is really really fun.