Friday, December 6, 2013

Closure


Yesterday was one of those rare day without wind and good swell.
6-8+ feet, some bigger sets.
It was crowded in the morning, but acceptable toward the end of the day, when I went.

Some good pictures from the local photographer:


There is some local talents on Maui


Looks like there was some tubes at 'The Point'

Another local photographer (under equipped):

From shore, it is always hard to realize the size of the sets.



I have mix feeling after this session.
I did not get on the way of anybody (one for once I wisely choose to eat the white wall and get caught on the inside and pounded), which is a sensible progress.
I managed to drop in 3 or 4 waves, one of them being big and scary (pounded again).
I did not give up after each pounding.

The surf report was calling 6 to 8 feet, up to 12 feet at standout breaks (which is Hookipa definition).
Then, technically, I surfed into double overhead conditions.

Arguably, it is a small Double OverHead.
But considering the timing - the end of the year - , and the shift in my priorities toward the running practice,
I think I could accept those conditions and called it an end.
As some of you might remember, one of the initial goal that sprouted this blog was to be able to kitesurf, surf and paddlesurf in double overhead conditions, and I do believe I am capable of this, in the proper conditions.

That being said, new adventures and goals are coming, the first marathon is in sight !


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