Lucky day

I have been lucky. My come back on Maui coincided with the first swell of the season.
Nothing to be crazy about, but 5 feet of ground swell and 5 feet of wind swell, there was some action.

Kanaha. 8m.
18 knots. 5 feet.
What could you ask for ?

Day like that, I really feel like I have - quoting a friend - "Won at the lottery of life".
Well, I prefer to say that I forced my chances and made some choices at a point where other did not.
But, yes, eventually, it came together alright.

Prey for it to last.