40 years old.
yeah, i know.
Anyway, mother nature gave me a birthday gift today. An quick glance of what is waiting for me. Double overhead surf, clean , beautiful at Lanes today.
Incredible.
Half a dozen guy out, 2-3 paddlers.
Magnificent.
According to my new surf-buddy John :"There is a lot of water though.". He is born in California and surfed all his life. I think he has been modest because of me, knowing my session would be short, or very very long.
In any case, not a good one ;)
Then, we "chicken-jib" and went to Paia Bay, where it was way more accessible.
Very fun session until sunset and a little after.
Do Shark hunt at sunset ?
Yes, sir,
but they like it during the day as well.
This was last week, when the close the beach just when i arrived to go kiting.
Scary, right ?
Anyway, I want kiting a couple of miles north, this day. But i was paying attention to not fall in the water ;)
Hawaii land of the welcome. For everybody. Bums, Tourists, yogi, Surfers, and sharks - all kind.
Aloha.
No comments :
Post a Comment