Let s keep the suspense until tomorrow for "what is his freak** goal?".
In fact, the goal has no importance, right ?, riding the path is what makes the difference...
Surfer's perspective: Only the paddle out matters, taking a wave is optional.
Specially when it is big, not like here - here it is humongous:
Jaw, couple of days ago, couple of miles away from our home.
Looks at this guy, Robby N. 50 years old. Dropping into Jaw and taking a beating. He was not even a SUP paddler in his younger years (Windsurfer, really, you did not it ?). They reinvented SUP 10 years ago.
If I meet him on the beach someday, I will ask him what was his goal.
3nd experiment: Would I be able to go ask Robby Naish a silly question because i made this point publicly on my Blog ? myself, the shyest guy on the beach ?
Ok, you will have guessed it, the fact that i am turning 40 in a dozen of days is certainly kind of related to all this jazz. What do you think ?
I do feel great, better than ever (and this is true).
Forty years old is a great age.
Denial, Denial ,...
Going back to my theory of the day and central point of this post:
Why do I need a goal ? Is not life already complicated enough ?
Simple question, simple answer : To regain control of my life.
Why do I need a goal ? Is not life already complicated enough ?
Simple question, simple answer : To regain control of my life.
Fears drive me (and most of us, i do believe). Various fears. Fear of death, mostly. I stopped smoking when I thought I will be dying (I mean, really thought I will, coughing, grasping for air). People stops drinking when they touch the bottom and realize it maybe too late.Fear of losing everything, including their life.
Great film. Sounds like a familiar story.
I have more personal examples, but I will keep them for the virtual couch of my virtual analyst, my surfboard.
Cardiovascular diseases are the number one cause if mortality in every industrial country. Everybody knows it. Or should. How many people change their nutrition before their first heart attack ? How many after ? (hopefully, this is high enough to give me reason - lol).
Addictions drive me.
On the other hands, some others things changed my life on an insidious way, for ever. Subtle or not so, subtle addictions, habits. No fear involved, no conscious decision involved. No real choice, in a matter of fact. A continuity.
Mostly negative things.
- The first beer
- The first smoke
- The first joint (funny this one is universal, same word in French and English)
And some positive things.
- The first girl (no pictures sorry , it was a while ago)
- The Big Air WindJam 2007
You got the point. List is almost infinite, between those two.
Fear makes us change radically, other changes occur gradually, not consciously, mostly from addictions, or habits, good or bad ones. Obviously, there is not real decision there.
Either way, I did not have a choice.
I am almost 40 years old. Time is to make some decisions on my own. Like a grownup, they say.
As I said earlier, time to have a goal. a public one ;)
It is time to make a choice. Time to have a goal.
(thought we will never got there, right ?)
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